Heading east from Albuquerque on I-40 through the Tijeras Canyon, then turning south through the Estancia Basin to the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument leads to one of the most gorgeous drives in New Mexico. The Abó site — the remains of a large pueblo and a Spanish Franciscan mission — is a quick stop off the highway. It gives visitors not only a glimpse into the area’s anthropology and history of religious colonization, but also its diversity of landscape and intense natural beauty.
Without the signage, drivers might miss the tiny, windy road that splits from U.S. Highway 60 outside Mountainair and leads to a surreal landscape. The road leading up a short hill passes some covered picnic areas that resemble pueblo architecture, equipped with tables and fireplaces, before opening up to a vast open space with mountains in the far distance. The crumbled, 40-foot walls of the Mission San Gregorio de Abó resemble a lone castle and are surrounded by endless fields of green-and-yellow brush and reddish-brown rock. It’s the only structure for miles, and the dwelling’s imposing facade leaves an impression long before curious travelers approach the monument.
The quiet site had few visitors on a recent Saturday afternoon and only a moaning breeze broke the silence of the area, creating a solemn atmosphere. Parking is about 150 feet from the trails leading to the official national monument and while walking onto the old church grounds is allowed, signs warn that straying too far from the pathways may disturb the rattlesnakes that call the unpaved areas home. The impressive walls of the mission, originally designed to keep intruders out, enclose a handful of small rooms that were once used for religious celebrations like masses and baptisms. The foreboding look of the building from afar is a stark contrast to the calm feeling inside the mission.
Some of the still intact church walls have windows that overlook the nearly untouched wilderness. A tiny room with an altar offers a peek at the sandstone riverbed from which the rocks that built the Pueblo and mission were excavated, but a closer look at the Abό site reveals many of the original Pueblo structures that still remain. In the center of the mission is an excavated kiva — a permanent reminder that the Franciscan church was constructed on top of a Pueblo that existed hundreds of years before Spanish colonization.
The end of the trail through the Abó site gives visitors a memorable and comprehensive view of the monument, but a road trip to Abó and back has much more to see than the monuments themselves.
The Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument is made up of three sites. In addition to Abó, the Quarai site off NM 55 at Punta De Agua, between Manzano and Mountainair, contains the most complete Salinas church. The Gran Quivira site (also known as Las Humanas) off NM 55 and about 25 miles south of Mountainair is the largest of the Salinas pueblos. All of the sites are free and open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
The most scenic route from Albuquerque to Abó begins on eastbound I-40 and continues south on NM 337 (just before Tijeras) through the Cibola National Forest and wraps around the Estancia Basin (NM 55) to the town of Mountainair. Nine miles west of Mountainair on Highway 60 leads to the church at Abó. Continuing west from Abó takes travelers through the town of Bernardo — which contains its own hidden gems along the Rio Grande — and finally back to I-25.
Most of the trek through the mountainous Cibola National Forest from Tijeras to Estancia is on the windy, two-lane NM 337. Road signs point to campgrounds, picnic areas, and scenic views at nearly every mile marker, and there are at least a dozen stops to take a break from driving, breathe in some fresh air or do some exploring. Hikers with backpacks and walking sticks can be seen descending into valleys and open spaces at practically every break between the peaks. Drivers are hard pressed not to feel a sense of community each time a friendly driver waves as they pass by, or a cyclist smiles as they shoot down a steep decline.
The drive to Abó has a diverse and varied terrain: Plant life, rock formations, vibrant colors and skies that travelers can see in a few-hour trip through central New Mexico. Changes in weather and climate can add to this experience, especially on days filled with scattered rain clouds pierced by rays of sunlight and hopefully rainbows, but the area is susceptible to flooding, and some roads may be closed or inaccessible during monsoon season.
Drivers may lose cell service in the remote Estancia Basin around the towns of Estancia, Willard and Mountainair — and service may not return until Bernardo, which is located south of Belen and a hair east of I-25.
The Rio Grande at Bernardo is another spot worth checking out. The town is comprised of a few farms and residences scattered along the river and is bisected by U.S. Highway 60. The bosque along this stretch of water might be the perfect spot to cast a fishing line and watch the sunset. There’s a good chance of reeling in a couple of channel catfish for dinner.
Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument
nps.gov/sapu/index.htm
Open year-round except Thanksgiving, Dec. 25, and Jan. 1
9 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Free